Saturday, January 30, 2016

The Best Way to Store Fresh Herbs



All of those stems of cilantro are the exact same age. 51 days in my refrigerator, to be exact. The only difference is in how they were stored. So what's the best way to store herbs? I tested out every method I could think of, isolating every variable—light, air, moisture, and temperature—and pushing my herbs to the limit to figure it out.:



Take a look at those herbs above. The ones on the left look liked they were probably picked fresh just before I photographed them, while the ones at the right had been hanging out in my refrigerator for weeks in a forgotton plastic bag, right? Wrong. All of those stems of cilantro are the exact same...
April 20, 2015
J. Kenji López-Alt

All of those stems of cilantro are the exact same age. 51 days in my refrigerator, to be exact. The only difference is in how they were stored. So what's the best way to store herbs? I tested out every method I could think of, isolating every variable—light, air, moisture, and temperature—and pushing my herbs to the limit to figure it out.
 

I've already shown you how you can freeze herbs in thin sheets to use for cooked applications and how to dry them in the microwave for intensely flavored dusts and rubs. But what's the best way to store fresh herbs if you want them to stay fresh? I tested out every method I could think of, isolating every variable—light, air, moisture, and temperature—and pushing my herbs to the limit to figure it out.

Here's what I found.

The Quick Version

Here's the quick run down on how to store your herbs for maximum potential shelf life:
Wash them. Wash your herbs by filling your salad spinner with cold water. Swirl the herbs gently around in the water to loosen any debris. Drain the water, spin the herbs dry, lay them on a layer of paper towels and pat gently with more paper towels to blot away any excess moisture.
Store Hardy Herbs by arranging them lengthwise in a single layer on a slightly damp paper towel, rolling them up like a jelly roll, then transfer the bundle to a plastic zipper lock bag or wrap it in plastic wrap. Store in the refrigerator.
Store Tender Herbs by snipping off the bases of the stems and removing any discolored or wilted leaves. Transfer them to a large mason jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Seal the jar with the lid (if it fits), or cover the top of the jar with an overturned plastic bag sealed with a rubber band. Store in the refrigerator.
Store Basil by snipping off the bases of the stems and placing the bunch in a vase or a mason jar with an inch or two of water at the bottom, just like a bouquet of flowers. Store at room temperature in a light area but out of direct sunlight.


Herb Herb Type Average Lifespan
Parsley Tender 3 weeks
Cilantro Tender 3 weeks
Dill Tender 2 weeks
Mint Tender 2 weeks
Tarragon Tender 3 weeks
Chervil Tender 1 1/2 weeks
Basil Special 2 weeks
Rosemary Hardy 3 weeks
Thyme Hardy 2 weeks
Sage Hardy 2 weeks
Savory Hardy 2 weeks
Chives Hardy 1 week

The Long Version

Now let's get to the nitty gritty of the testing to show why these are the best ways to store herbs.

To Wash or Not to Wash?

20150401-herb-storage-best-method-1.jpg

First things first: When you get the herbs home from the supermarket, can you store them as-is, or should you give 'em a quick wash first? Many sites recommend against washing as it adds moisture to the herbs. But most supermarkets mist their herbs on the shelves these days, so those herbs are pretty darn wet to begin with.
To test whether washing makes a difference, I split a bunch of parsley and a bunch of cilantro in half, washing one half in a salad spinner filled with cold water and spinning it dry. The other half I left as-is, simply spinning it dry to remove any excess moisture. I stored both in partially closed zipper-lock bags in the refrigerator.
Guess what? The un-washed herbs starting showing signs of decay days before the washed herbs did. Why is this? Surface debris and bacteria on the herbs can cause more rapid decay. Washing the herbs doesn't sterilize them, but it does remove a good number of the baddies (it's also an indication that it's a very good idea to wash your herbs and greens before eating them).

The Enemies of Freshness

To test out the effects of various elements on my herbs, I bought single bunches of herbs (parsley, cilantro, basil, tarragon, chives, mint, and oregano) and divided them into multiple smaller bunches, storing each in a different part of my fridge or countertop, exposed to different levels of light, humidity, and temperature. My testing showed that there are a number of factors that are likely to cause fresh herbs to decay or lose flavor.

  • Excessive exposure to light can damage chlorophyll, causing herbs to turn yellow. This is especially true for thin, delicate herbs like parsley, chervil, or cilantro. Stored in a sunny spot, delicate herbs will start to yellow within days.
  • Excessive exposure to oxygen can turn tender herbs like basil or mint brown, particularly if the leaves are in any way damaged or bruised. Herbs that were wrapped or covered lasted several times longer than those that were left completely exposed to the air in the fridge.
  • Excess moisture promotes decay, turning leaves and stems slimy or moldy. You've probably seen this when you leave your herbs inside the plastic bag from the supermarket and they quickly turn slimy.
  • Not enough moisture can cause herbs to dry out, and as moisture leaves the herbs and takes to the air, it brings along some of the herbs' flavor for the ride, reducing their potency.
  • The wrong temperature will cause herbs to decay or lose flavor faster than they should. Almost all herbs are best stored in the refrigerator, with the exception of basil and very thin-leafed mint, which can both be damaged by the cold, causing them to brown and bruise faster. In my fridge, storing the herbs at the back of the top shelf caused them to actually freeze in some parts. Ice crystals will cause cell damage turning herbs mushy.
With that information, I had a basic guide for what I wanted: some exposure to air for moisture to escape but not too much, minimal exposure to light, and a temperature that is cold but not too cold.

Storage Methods

20150401-herb-storage-best-method-2.jpg

I narrowed the field down to five common storage methods that seemed to be the most promising. I also stored herbs by throwing them straight into the fridge in their original bag from the supermarket as a control. I stored each set of herbs until they showed signs of rotting or losing freshness.
Here's what I tried:

  1. Straight from the supermarket, in a plastic vegetable bag in the fridge.
  2. Stored inside a zipper-lock bag left slightly ajar.
  3. Wrapped in a dry paper towel and stored inside a plastic zipper-lock bag.
  4. Wrapped in a damp paper towel and stored inside a plastic zipper-lock bag.
  5. Stem bases trimmed, stored upright in a glass of water uncovered.
  6. Stem bases trimmed, stored upright in a glass of water with an overturned zipper-lock bag covering the tops.

The Results

Straight from the supermarket was by far the worst method. Within a few days the herbs had started to show signs of rotting, and after a couple weeks, they were reduced to a slimy, unidentifiable mess at the bottom of the bag.
Wrapped in a dry paper towel in a zipper-lock bag proved the most effective method for hardy herbs like rosemary, thyme, and sage. Surprisingly, it was also the best method for tender chives.
Stored upright like flowers with water was by far the best for tender herbs like cilantro and parsley, and it's important to note that keeping the tops of those herbs tightly covered by placing an overturned zipper-lock bag over them and sealing it against the base of the jar was also an essential step in keeping them fresh.

20150401-herb-storage-best-method-5.jpg

The only downside of the method? It takes up a lot of vertical space, and more importantly, there's a real risk of accidentally knocking the container of herbs over as you fish around in the fridge. More than once I had to clean up accidental water spills after knocking over herbs when I was reaching behind them.

The solution? I use 1 quart plastic deli containers with lids or mason jars. By putting an inch of water at the bottom, placing the stem ends of your herbs down into the water, then folding the leaves over, you can seal up the jar and store your herbs for weeks (or even months if you're lucky!).

20150401-herb-storage-best-method-4.jpg

And the best part is no chance for a spill.

20150401-herb-storage-best-method-6.jpg

Alternative Storage Methods: Drying and Freezing

Sometimes you end up with more herbs than you know what to do with. In these cases, the herbs can be dried or frozen for future use. Dried herbs can be used just like the dried herbs you buy at the supermarket. They are best reserved for applications like spice rubs or long-cooked stews and sauces. Dry herbs in the microwave following our guide to drying herbs.
Frozen herbs can be used in most fresh herb applications where they herbs are even slightly cooked. Frozen herbs are particularly good for stirring last-minute into pasta sauces or pan sauces, or for making herb-heavy sauces like pesto and chimichurri. Freeze herbs following our guide to freezing herbs.

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Keep Berries From Becoming Moldy And Gross



How To Keep Berries From Getting Moldy And Gross


Fresh berries have two major enemies: mold and moisture. Here’s how to fight them off in 2 easy steps so you can enjoy your berries longer with far less wastage. Money saved!

How To Keep Berries From Getting Moldy And Gross | Fresh Strawberries, Blueberries, and Blackberries

Fresh berries should be washed and dried to kill mold spores before storing in the fridge.
Everyone says you shouldn’t wash berries until just before you eat them because moisture shortens their shelf life. But the truth is, berries carry mold spores that cause them to go bad very quickly. And that mold can spread through a whole basket of berries in a flash. Good news: You can easily kill off mold and bacteria with a quick vinegar and water bath, then dry off the berries before they go in the fridge. Here’s how to do it.

1. Vinegar Bath to Kill Mold

After discarding any berries that show even a bit of mold, put 3 cups cold water and 1 cup white vinegar in a large bowl or salad spinner.

How To Keep Berries From Getting Moldy And Gross | Making a 1:3 Vinegar and Water Bath

Make a solution of 1 part white vinegar to 3 parts cold water.
Immerse berries and swish around for about a minute.

How To Keep Berries From Getting Moldy And Gross | Washing Blueberries in Vinegar Water Bath

Washing blueberries in the vinegar water bath.
Drain berries, then rinse with clean, cold water until any trace of vinegar aroma or taste is gone.

How To Keep Berries From Getting Moldy And Gross | Rinsing Blueberries

Rinse the blueberries in cold water.
Spread out rinsed berries on clean cloth or paper towels, and pat and roll lightly with towels to dry them well.

How To Keep Berries From Getting Moldy And Gross | Drying Off Washed And Rinsed Berries

Drying off washed and rinsed berries.

2. Anti-Moisture Storage

If your berries came in a ventilated plastic clamshell-type package, wash it with soap and hot water, rinse and dry, then line it with a dry paper towel. Put the clean, dry berries back in the clamshell and store them in the fridge. Make sure to leave ventilation holes in the top uncovered so air can circulate in the package. Otherwise, store the berries in a clean container lined with paper towels, with the lid ajar so condensation can evaporate. Change the paper towels if they get damp over time.

How To Keep Berries From Getting Moldy And Gross | Washing and Storing Fresh Berries

Washed and dried berries in small containers lined with paper towels, ready for the fridge.
When I was researching this kitchen tip, I read where people were worried about the berries tasting like vinegar after their bath. I can tell you from experience that they don’t. I used plain white vinegar and didn’t let the berries sit in the bath for more than a couple of minutes. It didn’t take much rinsing before I couldn’t smell even a hint of vinegar, and I never tasted any.

Notes
  • This method works best for firm berries like strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries. Fragile raspberries should get the classic “rinse right before eating” treatment with just plain water.
  • The vinegar bath won’t “cure” very moldy berries; it’s best to pick those out and discard them right away.
  • Berries that are super-ripe to begin with should be eaten within a couple of days
Here are some great recipes to enjoy during berry season.


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Monday, January 25, 2016

Rareseeds .com 2016 Order



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    Sphagnum Peat Moss - Is It Just a Memory?


    We are becoming really close to losing one of the gardeners most valuable natural resources. 


    Many of you might be thinking that if you don’t use sphagnum, this doesn't affect you. But if you are a gardener, you are affected whether you know it or not. Sphagnum peat moss is a main ingredient in most soilless mixes that gardeners use.

    I was the greenhouse chairman for our Master Gardener group for a number of years and was responsible for purchasing all of the supplies needed to begin our planting process each spring. Year after year, I noticed the cost of seed starting, as well as soilless mix, was increasing by a few dollars each year. Suddenly the prices rose dramatically. I began doing a little research and was shocked when I discovered the reason for the rising costs.

    Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss (CSPM) is not in itself a soil nutrient. However it is very porous, which results in it holding nutrients as well as moisture. This makes it valuable in the production of potting mixes.

    It is formed by nature over centuries, through the decomposition of vegetative matter in wetlands that contain poorly drained, oxygen-deprived soils. In these types of conditions, decomposition is somewhat slower than we are normally accustomed to. Most of the sites that are favorable for producing CPSM in North America are located across northern Canada.

    This is a very slow process; the rate of accumulation is less than 1/8 of an inch annually. A depth of 6 inches of peat is considered a jackpot. As you can guess, the rate of harvest greatly exceeds the rate of accumulation.

    Peat was used as a fuel by native Canadians as well as Americans for hundreds of years. What has taken Mother Nature thousands of years to produce has been depleted by man in a fraction of that time.

    What are gardeners supposed to do? There are several alternatives that seem to work quite well.

    Leaf Mold
    In the United Kingdom, leaf mold is the soil connoisseur’s choice for amending poor soils as well as a very effective mulch. It is simply shredded leaves that have been kept damp until fungi begin to break them down. Most leaves are on the acidic side when dry. When they begin to decay, they move to a more neutral pH making them ideal as an amendment to your soil. Leaf mold is great at holding moisture as well as making the soil more friable. The best part is the cost: leaves are free and all you need to do is shred them with the lawnmower, keep them damp in a shady location and let nature take its course.

    Coir
    This is the shredded fibrous husk of a coconut. It holds moisture very well and drains well also. Being a natural substance it breaks down and adds nutrients to the soil, and it is a plentiful, renewable resource. It is also high in potassium. On the down side it is acidic; if you use it on vegetables or other alkaline loving plants you need to monitor the soil pH. Lime can be added to raise the pH if warranted. It is also a little on the costly side as it is not produced in North America, which can add to the transportation costs.

    PittMoss
    A new kid on the block was noticed noticed after the creators made their appearance on the TV show Shark Tank. PittMoss is a mix of proprietary additives and recycled paper. The producers say that it is comparable in cost to peat moss with a zero impact on the environment. During trials, plants grown in PittMoss require 50% less water than plants grown with peat moss. At the present time this product is only available to commercial growers. A manufacturing plant is being built in order to increase production and make the product available to the general public. For a short six minute video on PittMoss click here
    Whether you use peat moss in your garden beds, or as an ingredient in your own soilless mixes for seed starting or containers, I hope you will give some of these alternatives to CSPM a try. By switching to an alternative, you will help to conserve a valuable natural resource and slow the rate of depletion in Canada's natural peat bogs.



    Dave's Garden Sphagnum Peat Moss Info




    Monday, October 19, 2015

    Amaryllis Adventure: Colorful Surprises Grown from Seed




    Amaryllis Adventure: Colorful Surprises Grown from Seed

    Amaryllis! Those huge bulbs that explode upward into enormous blooms bring magic to dreary winter days. Growing them from strange papery seeds can be even more of an adventure

    I got five Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) seeds as bonus in one of my first DG trades and dashed to PlantFiles to see what I should do with them. I read that it's best to sow the seeds when they're fresh, so I grabbed a little clay pot and planted them right away. Seeing 5 slender, grass-like leaves emerge was such fun! Then I read that it could be years before I'd see a bloom. Ah, well. I tucked the pot away at the back of my plant stand. As the seedlings grew, I separated them into bigger pots. Then, one winter, I got a bloom! (Photo at upper right is my first seed-grown bloom.) I was hooke5 grass like seedlings in small clay potd. I had to try again this year, starting in winter with seeds from my own plants.

    Let's have a moment of blunt honesty: it can take 3 to 5 years for an amaryllis seedling to get big enough to bloom. Why would anybody bother? It's quicker to grow out offset bulbs and quicker yet to just buy a fat new bulb. There's a certain thrill in creating a new plant, in not quite knowing what you're going to get when you hybridize your own. Sometimes, it's another way to propagate a hard-to-find favorite. Self-pollinated seeds won't come true to the parent plant, but some will likely be close.

    If you have two pretties blooming at the same time, cross-pollination is easy. To reduce the chance of a flower also self-pollinating, use a newly-opened bloom. close up of anthers showing fuzzy gold pollenCarefully clip the anthers (the things shaped like great big grains of rice, where the pollen will emerge) from the bloom, so their pollen won't get on the stamen. shows wedge shaped tip of pale green stamenJust toss them out, or save them to pollinate another plant. Now pick an anther with fluffy golden pollen from another plant that you want to cross with your parent bloom. You can also use a little brush or q-tip to transfer pollen from one plant to another. Dab the pollen generously onto the stamen (the female structure, a slender projection ending in a tri-lobed stub). 





    If the ones you want to cross don't cooperate by blooming at the same time, don't worry. You can save pollen in the refrigerator for a few days or in the freezer almost indefinitely. I found some little plastic containers at the dollar store that are perfect for holding a few pollen-laden anthers, freshly snipped from a bloom. pale pink amaryllis bloom

    Often, seed pods will form without any help from you. Most likely, they are self-pollinated. You can deliberately make a self-pollinated cross, of course, by dabbing the flower's stamen with pollen from the same bloom. Why would you want to cross a bloom with itself? Re-mixing the combination of genes that produced a hybrid can give you completely new results, hopefully with some of the same desirable charactistics of the parent. One of my favorite amaryllises this winter was a mis-labeled variety that we've been unable to ID. I'm hoping its self-pollinated offspring will have the same light fragrance (unusual for an amaryllis) as its delicately shell-pink parent.


    oval green swellings at base of blooms
    You'll know pollination was successful when you see a swelling at the base of the bloom. brown dry seed pod splits to show stack of papery black seedsAfter the flower fades, the ovary will continue to swell to an inch or more in diameter. Be patient; it can take several weeks for the seeds to mature. You'll know when they're ready, because the pod will split open to reveal flat, black, papery seeds. If you rub the papery ovals between your fingertips, you'll be able to feel the tiny bumps that are the actual seeds.

    black flat papery seeds scattered on counter pair of black seeds tucked down into potting mix shows corner of domed venter container 

     I start amaryllis seeds the same way I start most seeds indoors, by pressing them into moist sterilized potting mix in a vented, domed seed starting tray grasslike sproute in round container with yellow straw laid across diagonally(aka "take out salad container with holes punched in top and bottom"). Since Hippeastrums are tropical, I put them on a seedling heat mat to help with germination. Every seed sprouted! After a couple of months, it was time to pot them up individually. At this stage, most of them still look like single blades of grass, although a couple were starting to put up a second leaf. When I gently lifted each seedling for planting, I saw tiny bulbs forming! They looked more like chives than amaryllises, but I knew with time the bulbs would get bigger and acquire their dark papery skin.

    tiny white bulbette and grassy leaves plastic cup containing 5 seedlings like blades of grass seedlings have sprouted more grassy foliage 

    They'll grow on under the lights this year, and I'll transplant them into larger containers as they grow. To save space, I'll likely pot them in clumps. By next year, they may be big enough to spend the summer planted out in the tropical bed by my deck.
    I can't wait to see them bloom!

    For more information on growing and propagating Hippeastrum, please visit the DG Amaryllis and Hippeastrum forum.

    For amaryllis sources, check out the bulb suppliers listed in the Garden Watchdog.

    Photos by Jill M. Nicolaus. Move your mouse over images and links for more information (let the cursor hover for a couple of seconds, and a pop-up caption will appear).